CLEANSER

Pixi Glow Mud Cleanser

Glycolic has the smallest molecular size of AHAs and can most easily penetrate the skin, making it a great and effective option for clearing up pores, banishing blackheads, and gently exfoliating by promoting cell turnover — and it boosts collagen production. Normally I would reserve active acids for leave on treatments (unlike cleansers, which you wash away), since it needs time to penetrate, but I love this gentle mud cleanser. At night, I start with a cleansing oil and then go in with this cleanser and my skin feels new again. While it may seem like a lot to use this and follow with other acids (toner and serum), the cleanser isn’t on my skin long enough to be terribly active — and I’ll switch to Avene gentle cleanser when I want something even more gentle. P.S. Unlike BHA (Salicylic), Glycolic is water and not oil soluble, so this won’t dry you out.

Pixi Glow Mud Cleanser – $18

CLEANSING OIL

The Body Shop Camomile Silky Cleansing Makeup Remover Oil

If you wear SPF (and you better!!) or makeup, start your cleanse with an oil or balm that can break down all of that before you go in with your second cleanser. I love this oil. It’s relatively inexpensive for a large bottle, has a pump (which I prefer for a cleansing oil), and it effectively breaks everything down in one fell swoop. I apply to dry skin, work it in and wipe it off with a cloth before going in with my second cleanser. I have a few other oils I use, but I included this one because I think it’s a great deal for such a nice product!

The Body Shop Camomile Silky Cleansing Makeup Remover Oil – $21

ACID TONER

Pixi Glow Tonic

When you think toner, you might think of that Sea Breeze toner that adults used to give to teenagers for its astringent properties. This isn’t that. Generally speaking, toners can have all sorts of purposes: to balance your pH, moisturize, calm, thoroughly clean what’s left behind. pH balance isn’t always an issue since many cleansers are pH balanced, but in general, I think of a toner as the prep step before any treatments. I usually reach for Pixi Glow Tonic in the morning after cleansing, and use it (or FAB radiance pads) at night, too, when I’m using a more active treatment and want something not as strong. If you’re new to acid toners, this is where you should start — and if you’re not, you should still have this in your cabinet. It’s great because it’s efficient but not so strong that it can’t be used in conjunction with stronger treatments. P.S. A few people have asked me if this is a “dupe” for P50. In short, no. Completely different product, and P50 is much stronger than this. However, it’s a great alternative if you 1. Don’t want to spend the money or 2. Want something less intense.

Pixi Glow Tonic – $15

ACID TONER

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50

I almost didn’t put this on the list for one reason: it’s kind of a pain to get it, since it’s only sold in spas and a couple of websites. Biologique Recherche is very particular, and wants people who use their products to have a skin care analysis with a professional, so their products can be properly matched to the skin’s concerns. I get that, I really do. There’s no one size fits all in skin care. If there were, we would all have perfect skin.  That being said, if you want to give it a go, there are ways around it. You can call Rescue Spa and get their advice on what to try, and then order from there. I actually order from Vicki Morav, though, and all you have to do is sign up on their site. What I love about them is that they’re very generous with samples of other Biologique products. And since they’re not cheap, that’s a huge perk!

Here’s what you need to know. P50 is an exfoliating acid and a darn effective one, at that. It also regulates sebum production (which makes it great for acne) and evens out your skin tone. There are several variants of P50: original P50, P50 1970 (the original with phenol), P50W and P50W 1970 (for sensitive skin), P50V  and P50V 1970 (for dry skin), and P50 PIGM 400 (for hyperpigmentation). I prefer the original P50 in the new formula to the 1970 with phenol, though I have friends who feel the opposite. I get similar results from both, but 1970 is a little harsher on my skin and I am not fond of the Robitussin smell. The new formula smells of vinegar, but it doesn’t bother me at all.

For a full breakdown of P50, I highly recommend checking out my dear friend Helena’s post all about Biologique Recherche Lotion P50. It’s super informative and will help you figure out what is right for you.

Biologique Recherche Lotion P50 – $101

HYDRATING SERUM

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydrating Serum

I don’t mind investing in skin care, but I’ve found that some of my favorite, go-to brands are on the more affordable side. Higher prices than drugstore, sure, but well below luxury brands. First Aid Beauty is one of those go-tos for great products that won’t break the bank. I love this hydrating serum because it’s lightweight enough to use both day and night, and highly effective. It contains hyaluronic acid, which is a humectant (meaning it attracts moisture), and colloidal oatmeal and aloe, which soothe irritated skin.

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Hydrating Serum – $36

MOISTURIZER

Drunk Elephant Lala Retro

If Nourish is my daytime moisturizer, this is my night cream. It can be used during the day — it’s not greasy or heavy — but the thick, luscious cream makes it feel like such a night treat. When my skin is feeling dry, this is my go-to. For the record, I wish all thicker moisturizers came in containers like this, with the clean pump top (Nourish is the same, but its so loose that it doesn’t matter). Not cheap, but it lasts a long time. A little goes a long way.

Drunk Elephant Lala Retro – $60

MOISTURIZER

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream

Does it seem like overkill to have three moisturizers? In my opinion, no — I have many more, in fact. This is just the tip of the skin care iceberg. Just remember that I don’t use everything at once, and each has its place. If my skin feels even the slightest bit sensitive, I turn to this cream, but it’s also a great daily moisturizer. The colloidal oatmeal soothes irritation and ceramides provide a protective barrier on the skin, keeping moisture in. It also claims to be great for people with Eczema, but since I don’t have that, I’m hesitant to recommend.

First Aid Beauty Ultra Repair Cream – $30

RETINOL OIL

Sunday Riley Luna

If you’re not using a retinol, this is a great product to start with. My skin is sensitive to many retinols out there (although lately I’ve been using PCA’s .5% brightening and LOVE it), but Luna is gentle yet still active enough for me. Retinol (Vitamin A) is the best anti-aging ingredient you can get over the counter: it helps prevent wrinkles, firms skin (by stimulating collagen and elastin production), and can help fade hyperpigmentation. Because Luna is formulated with carrier oils, it is much gentler on the skin than many retinol creams. When used in conjunction with Good Genes, it’s even better. Start by using a couple times a week (at night only) and you can work your way up to every other day.

Sunday Riley Luna – $105

PURCHASE TOGETHER & SAVE:

Sunday Riley
Good Genes & Luna – $85

OIL

Darphin Orange Blossom Aromatic Care

Not all oils are created equally, so put down your cooking oil and get yourself a good quality oil. One of my long-time favorites, Orange Blossom Aromatic Care is made up of Orange Blossom, Lemon, Carrot, Lavender, Chamomile, Bilberry and Cranberry oils. The thing I love about this oil is that it’s not a slippery, thin oil; it’s velvety and viscous, and a tiny bit goes a long way.

Darphin Orange Blossom Aromatic Care – $80

EYE GEL

PCA Skin Ideal Complex Revitalizing Eye Gel

This eye gel firms, smooths, and lifts the entire eye area (including the eyelid). It’s also available as a cream, but I prefer it as a gel. It contains niacinamide (skin restoring, improves fine lines, retains moisture, reduces puffiness and is a stable antioxidant) and Myristoyl Nonapeptide-3, a peptide with similar benefits as vitamin A (without irritation). It’s nice on its own, but if my eyes are extra puffy, putting it in the fridge makes it feel even better!

PCA Skin Ideal Complex Revitalizing Eye Gel – $87

NECK CREAM

Strivectin TL Advanced Tightening Neck Cream

Do you need a separate neck cream? The short answer is no, but you’ll want one when it’s as good as this. So many people treat their face and neglect their neck and decolletage, and that’s why they reveal our true age. This tightening neck cream is thicker than anything I’d want to put on my face, but it’s a dream on my neck. I’ve been using this for quite awhile, and it has visibly improved the “neck bands” I was starting to see. I was looking in the mirror the other day and thought to myself, “Wow, they’re barely there!” It’s expensive, but it lasts quite awhile since a little goes a long way. I’ve been saying “a little goes a long way” a lot, huh?

Strivectin TL Advanced Tightening Neck Cream – $95

ANTIOXIDANT

PCA Skin C and E Strength Max

Vitamin C — more specifically L-ascorbic acid — is a powerful antioxidant. It has anti-aging and brightening (correcting pigmentation) benefits, and also helps your skin defend itself from free radicals in the environment. However, vitamin C is a particularly unstable ingredient: exposure to air, heat, water, and light can decrease its potency, and though topically it’s the most effective, L-ascorbic acid is also the least stable in solution. Even in a pretty airtight, amber container such as my favorite vitamin c (following), it’s slowly losing effectiveness as it sits on the shelf, due to its formulation. Drats! PCA spent years perfecting this formula to make it as stable as possible, and even tested its shelf life after 3 years with the same effects. Pretty impressive! That’s the good part, but if you’re like me and prefer a serum, this takes a little getting used to. It feels like an ever-so-slightly gritty primer (due to the silicone) — the texture reminds me of Dr. Brandt’s Pores No More. This has a maximum concentration of vitamins C and E, so if you’re new to vitamin C, start with the regular C&E. I’d also advice doing a patch test, and you can also cocktail with your moisturizer! Use in the daytime.

PCA Skin C and E Strength Max – $99

MASK

Erno Laszlo White Marble Bright Face Mask

Erno Laszlo feels like Old Hollywood luxury to me, and maybe that’s because its roots are steeped in exactly that. Marilyn Monroe, Jackie O, Audrey Hepburn, and let’s not forget Annie Hall. That doesn’t mean they’re stuck in the past (though I wouldn’t blame them) — their products are top notch. I’m wild about their White Marble lighten & brighten face mask. You mix the two packets (a gel and a powder) to make it into a thick and rubbery paste, and when it dries, you peel it off to reveal smooth, bright, supple skin. They have other masks tailored to different needs, too!

Erno Laszlo White Marble Bright Face Mask – $80

MASK

Dr. Jart Water Fuse Hydro Sleep Mask

True story: one of my dear friends fell asleep with a clay mask on her face (Ahhh!) and ended up with the most dehydrated, tight skin I have ever seen. She warned me before we met up and I thought she must have been exaggerating, but it was painful looking. I brought her a jar full of this sleep mask and told her to put it on top of her moisturizer at night. She woke up the next day and asked me what this magical product was, because it is that good at restoring your skin’s moisture. I love this sleep mask, especially in the winter. It’s a skin saver!

Dr. Jart Water Fuse Hydro Sleep Mask – $48